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Study Explores Panthenol Citrate as a Potential UV-Protective Ingredient for Skin 

12/09/2025 • by Chloe Gronow

News

A recent study published in ACS Applied Materials & Interfaces has examined the potential of panthenol citrate – a compound derived from provitamin B5 and citric acid – as an ingredient that may help protect skin from ultraviolet (UV) radiation.

The study evaluated the compound’s antioxidant activity and ability to mitigate molecular damage in human skin models exposed to UV light.  

 

In laboratory experiments, panthenol citrate showed several antioxidant properties, including free radical scavenging, iron chelation, and the inhibition of lipid peroxidation. When applied to human skin tissue models subjected to UV radiation, the compound was associated with lower levels of DNA damage, as measured by the marker 8OHdG, and a reduction in apoptosis, indicated by reduced caspase-3 expression. These results suggest that the compound may help reduce oxidative stress and cellular damage under UV exposure, though the study emphasises that these findings are limited to ex-vivo models.  

 

The researchers also tested panthenol citrate in both water- and oil-based solutions – such as glycerol and coconut oil – and found that it retained stability and activity across these formulations. This suggests possible compatibility with different types of skincare products.  

 

However, the authors caution that further studies are needed to determine the compound’s effects in living human subjects. The next steps would likely involve clinical trials to assess safety, efficacy, and performance under real-world conditions. Dr Qing Zhang, a co-author, noted that while the compound may be a promising candidate for further development, conclusions about its commercial potential or effectiveness should be avoided at this stage.  

 

Panthenol and citric acid are already widely used in skincare for their moisturising and pH-adjusting properties. The combination explored in this study represents a new approach to developing multifunctional skincare ingredients, though more research is required before practical applications can be confirmed.  

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